Nature Photography: |
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Modern, high-performance digital and film cameras use sophisticated electronics, software and precision-ground lenses to re- produce the best possible representation of the actual scene or event. User or camera shortcomings can be further corrected using "post-production" software such as Adobe Photoshop Elements, Jasc PhotoShop Pro or GIMP (a superb, free open-source program). Despite modern automation, no one will argue the importance of at-the-camera photographic mechanical/optical skills (use of filters, tripods, remotes) as well as a good grasp of camera or software manual-adjustment utilities. A bit of reading, in-the-field practice and a lot of throw-away shots (!!) are required. However, once you're comfortable with a few, basic skills you will shoot and manipulate images with outstanding results.
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above: Under-exposed
rose bush at Toledo Botanical Gardens, Toledo, Ohio, USA: this picture
was photographed using Fuji Velvia film and an Olympus OM 2N SLR Camera
with a 28mm Zuiko lens. This was a windy day so a fast shutter
speed was deemed necessary...and used. Unfortunately, this photo was
taken very late (8 pm) on a dark, very overcast summer day. A combination
of low light and fast shutter speed -- as well as the low speed of
the Velvia film: ISO 50 -- led to the under-exposed effect seen above. |
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above: Under-exposed rose bush at Toledo Botanical Gardens not correctable using Jasc Paint Shop Pro Version 8.10 and it's "One Step Photo Fix" utility. |
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above: Under-exposed rose bush at Toledo Botanical Gardens: Somewhat corrected manually with Jasc Paint Shop Pro Version 8.10. |
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above: Under-exposed rose bush at Toledo Botanical Gardens: Somewhat corrected manually using the incredible Adobe Photoshop Elements 2.0 program. Although Jasc may have been tweaked to look similar to this Photoshop image, I tried to keep tweaking times similar for both programs. This was what I came up with in the same amount of time as spent on the image immediately above this one. Given this criteria, Photoshop is a clear winner. Further tweaking and and/or use of more sophisticated photo programs (such as the full version of Adobe Photoshop) may lead to even better results -- such as reduction of "crushed" black-level detail, clearly needed in this image. However, the point of the discussion on this page is this: if you do it right the first time (see image below), you will have to do little or no "post-production" manipulation.
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above: A close-up of roses at the same rose bush as in shots above. The wind gusts died down for a few seconds, allowing the use of a slightly longer exposure time. This image has not been "re-touched" in any way. The word re-touched is used in quotation; the lab technician that developed this transparency (slide) film probably made some personal choices during development. All photos on this page were scanned using a Hewlett-Packard PhotoSmart S20 scanner. Although this is a dedicated photo and transparency scanner, it is a comparatively inexpensive (and, now, relatively old; it was first available in 1998); it may be a limiting factor. That said, the over-saturated reds visible in this image were also pronounced in the original slide. Pure reds are traditionally a more-difficult hue to reproduce. |
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above: Raw image: Close-up
of red roses without color correction. Note: the original
image is over 7 megabytes in size; the image above is a bit
over 283 kilobytes. Although the original has greater resolution
(noted in larger, blown-up sizes) the reduction in scale (1:24.7) does
not mean that the image you see above is 24.7 times "less worthy".
This is just what the scanner outputs; some of it may, indeed, be worthless
noise. Modern graphics programs, such as Adobe
Photoshop , Jasc
PaintShop Pro and GIMP have mathematical
algorithms sophisticated enough to scale an image down in size, without
sacrificing color fidelity and saturation, hue accuracy, and contrast
and brightness "dynamics". |
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above: Close-up of red
roses -- same image as above -- with color correction, performed
in Adobe
Photoshop Elements. An additional layer was created and saturation
and hue were adjusted accordingly. There is a slight "blur"
visible. This was due to movements of the plants caused by wind currents.
A tripod is essential for serious imaging. Additionally, an object may
be braced ("anchored") by hand or a stick to further steady
the shot. |
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